Imagine you are at the start line of the biggest race of your live and the horn goes off. You paddle like mad to get a good start, your paddle blade hits your foil and it breaks. You have 32 miles of ocean ahead of you and no spare paddle.
That exactly happened to Tom Constant a French big wave surfer who came to Hawaii to be part of the Molokai2Oahu. He ended up prone paddling into the bumps and managed to get him self up with his broken paddle on one wave. He then crossed the channel without falling once and made it to China Wall prone paddling to the finish line.
In this video Tom Constant is telling us his story as well as what it takes to surf / foil waves like Nazare.
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